Black Mussel of Taranto: history, characteristics and Slow Food Presidium

There are products linked to a territory because that is where they are prepared. Others, however, are so intertwined with the history of a city that to understand them, one must first observe the landscape, the work, and the people. The Black Mussel of Taranto belongs to this second category.

Its reference point is the Mar Piccolo of Taranto, an internal body of water where mollusk farming has a documented history spanning centuries. Here, the work of mussel farmers has built up knowledge, techniques, and a relationship with the sea that still represent an important part of the city's productive identity today.

In 2026, Taranto is also at the center of international attention for the XX Mediterranean Games, which opened on August 21 and are scheduled until September 3 in various Apulian locations. It is an opportunity to look at the city through its cultural and gastronomic heritage as well, without forgetting that the history of Taranto's mussel farming predates any contemporary major event by centuries.

What is the Black Mussel of Taranto

The Black Mussel of Taranto, known in the local tradition also as cozza tarantina or "cozza gnure", belongs to the Mytilus galloprovincialis species, the Mediterranean mussel.

The Slow Food Foundation describes the Presidium mussel as having an almost quadrangular shape and valves generally between 5 and 8 centimeters, characterized by a shiny black-violet external coloration.

These morphological elements, however, are not sufficient on their own to prove the origin of a mussel. Mussels belonging to the same species are, in fact, farmed in other areas of the Mediterranean as well.

In the case of the Presidium, what concretely connects the product to Taranto is above all its origin from the Mar Piccolo, together with the producer, traceability, and compliance with the regulations set out by the Slow Food project.

For this reason, a mussel purchased or consumed simply in the city of Taranto cannot be automatically considered a Black Mussel of Taranto from the Slow Food Presidium. To determine its origin, it is necessary to refer to supply chain information.

The traditional denomination also possesses a specific recognition in the Italian agri-food tradition: the entry “Cozza tarantina, Cozza gnure” is included in the national list of Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) of Puglia published by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry.

Being included in the PAT list, however, is not equivalent to holding a PDO or PGI certification.

The Mar Piccolo of Taranto

An environment linked to mussel farming

To understand the history of Taranto's mussels, one must start with the Mar Piccolo.

Scientific documentation from the CNR (National Research Council) describes it as an internal and semi-enclosed basin, located north of the city and divided into two basins called the First and Second Seno (Inlet).

Among its characteristics is the presence of freshwater input originating from numerous submarine springs, traditionally called “citri”, as well as from small karst watercourses.

The CNR also identifies mussel farming as one of the most historically important activities carried out in the Mar Piccolo.

Why the territory matters

The link between the Taranto mussel and the territory does not depend, therefore, on a generic formula like "waters unique in the world," but on a concrete set of environmental, productive, and cultural factors.

The Mar Piccolo is an integral part of the system that shaped the tradition of Taranto mussel farming. Added to the characteristics of the basin are the knowledge developed by the mussel farmers and the farming systems handed down and progressively adapted over time.

It is precisely this combination that makes it insufficient to recognize a Black Mussel of Taranto solely through the color of its shell, its size, or its flavor.

The history of Taranto's mussel farming

Historical evidence

The relationship between Taranto and mollusk farming has very ancient roots. The Slow Food Foundation recalls an oyster farming industry already thriving in the late Roman era and the Middle Ages and links this activity to the characteristics of the Mar Piccolo.

For the so-called “cozze negre”, there is a precise chronological reference reported by the Slow Food Foundation itself: the first documents using this expression date back to 1525.

It is important to present this data correctly: 1525 is the first documentary evidence indicated by the Slow Food Foundation for the expression "cozze negre," and it should not be generically transformed into the statement that "mussels have been farmed in Taranto since 1525." The history of local mollusk farming, in fact, is traced back by the source to earlier periods.

Furthermore, in the 16th century, the Red Book of Taranto contained provisions aimed at regulating the exploitation of coastal lagoon resources and limiting damage caused by certain fishing tools.

According to the Slow Food Foundation, in the 19th century, Taranto's mollusk farming achieved significant notoriety: it was present at international exhibitions in Cornwall, Milan, and Paris, and the experience of local mussel farmers contributed to the spread of cultivation systems inspired by Ionian ones.

A trade linked to the city

Behind Taranto's mussel farming is a trade made of concrete activities: management of facilities, control of ropes, thinning of mussels, cleaning of supports, and continuous observation of sea conditions.

There is no need to transform this work into a romantic image. Mussel farming is a complex productive activity, conditioned by the environment, climate change, sanitary regulations, and the needs of traceability and marketing.

At the same time, the vocabulary and techniques developed in the Mar Piccolo tell us how deeply this trade has entered the city's culture.

Why it became a Slow Food Presidium

The Slow Food Presidium for the Black Mussel of Taranto was officially presented in April 2022, at the end of a process developed as part of the “ReMar Piccolo: nature and traditions to revive the sea” project.

One of the central elements of the initiative is the technical regulation, developed with the involvement of institutions, local stakeholders, and industry operators.

According to the Puglia Region and Slow Food, the regulation establishes procedures related to production and introduces standards oriented towards quality, product traceability, ecosystem protection, and attention to waste production.

When talking about the number of members, it is necessary to distinguish precisely between the sources and units used.

The official Slow Food Foundation sheet currently lists 21 mussel farmers by name. An update published by Slow Fish in May 2025 reports the words of producer representative Luciano Carriero, according to whom the Presidium included 24 cooperatives and hundreds of families at that time.

The two numbers are not directly comparable, as one refers to individually listed mussel farmers and the other to cooperatives. For this reason, it is preferable not to indicate a single number of “producers” as an absolute and definitive figure.

According to institutional documentation, the project involves entities such as Slow Food Puglia, the Municipality of Taranto, the Mar Piccolo Regional Natural Park, ECO.PA.MAR, and CNR research structures.

The Presidium, therefore, was not created just to promote a food item. The goal is to strengthen a recognizable supply chain, preserve production skills, improve traceability, and encourage more environmentally friendly practices.

Does Slow Food Presidium mean PDO?

No. The Slow Food Presidium Black Mussel of Taranto should not be called “PDO Black Mussel of Taranto”.

A Slow Food Presidium and European geographical indications like PDO and PGI are different tools.

• Slow Food Presidium: is a project of the Slow Food network aimed at the protection of products, communities, biodiversity, production practices, and territories through specific criteria and regulations.
• PDO – Protected Designation of Origin: is a geographical indication governed by the European Union. For PDO products, all relevant stages of production, processing, and preparation must take place in the geographical area defined by the registered regulation.
• PGI – Protected Geographical Indication: is also a European geographical indication, but it requires that at least one stage of production, processing, or preparation takes place in the specific region and that a quality, reputation, or other characteristic of the product be linked to its geographical origin.

The official Slow Food Foundation sheet currently indicates obtaining PDO status as the next goal of the project.

This indication does not, however, mean that the PDO has already been obtained, nor does it, by itself, prove the existence of a concluded European process. Until any potential official recognition, the correct expressions remain Black Mussel of Taranto and Slow Food Presidium of the Black Mussel of Taranto.

How it is farmed

The practices of mussel farming in Taranto derive from knowledge developed over time and subsequently adapted to modern systems.

The Slow Food Foundation explains that traditional pole-based facilities have been progressively joined or replaced by floating systems called “long lines”.

In the description of traditional practices of the Mar Piccolo, marine plots are called “piscarie” and are delimited by structures to which the supports intended for mussel growth are attached.

Vegetable ropes are traditionally called “lìbani”. After the initial stages of their development, mussel larvae attach themselves to submerged supports through the filaments of the byssus.

According to the description provided by the Slow Food Foundation, in spring, the ropes can appear dark due to the accumulation of young mussels. In the traditional practice described by the source, in April, the ropes loaded with seed are transferred to the ropes intended for the next growth phase.

The lìbani with mussels attached are called “pergolari”.

During the following months, mussel farmers perform thinning and cleaning operations (the removal of organisms that settle on the pergolari and can interfere with the growth of the mussels).

The Slow Food Foundation indicates that, in the practices described for the Presidium, the mussels are ready for marketing about 12-16 months after the larvae attach.

The regulation also pays particular attention to the materials used. As part of the project, biodegradable and compostable Mater-Bi nets have been tested as an alternative to some traditional plastic supports used in mussel farming.

When is the Black Mussel of Taranto available

The Slow Food Foundation indicates that Taranto black mussels are available on the market in spring and summer.

It is preferable to speak of a prevalent seasonality rather than turning it into an absolute calendar, because production is linked to living organisms and can be influenced by the environmental and climatic conditions of different years.

Recent events have shown this clearly. Slow Food has documented the difficulties caused in 2024 by high water temperatures, which caused significant losses for mussel farmers.

In May 2025, Presidium representative Luciano Carriero reported the loss of about 70% of the seed, with consequences for subsequent production. At the same time, new positive developments in the seed were reported in the spring of 2025.

To know the actual availability of the product in a given year, it is therefore advisable to verify information provided directly by producers and official Presidium channels.

How to recognize the product

The dark color of the valves contributed to the traditional name, but observing the shell is not enough to determine the origin of a mussel with certainty.

For the consumer, information regarding origin and the supply chain is much more important.

At the time of purchase, it is useful to verify:

• the declared origin of the product;
• identification of the producer or responsible operator;
• information provided on the labeling or packaging;
• elements that allow for batch traceability;
• when declared, the producer's adherence to the Slow Food Presidium of the Black Mussel of Taranto.

It is, therefore, more correct to recognize authenticity through traceability and documented origin rather than relying exclusively on color, shape, size, or taste.

The Black Mussel in Taranto cuisine

In Taranto, the mussel is deeply linked to seafood cuisine. It appears in simple preparations and more structured recipes, some strictly associated with the city and others belonging to broader Apulian tradition.

Gratinated mussels

Gratinated mussels are one of the preparations also documented in gastronomic events organized by the Slow Food network.

The mussels are opened and then baked with ingredients that can vary according to different family and regional recipes. There is, therefore, no need to attribute the value of a mandatory or definitive recipe to just one version.

Tubetti pasta with mussels

Tubetti with mussels are one of the preparations most associated with Taranto seafood cuisine and also appear in initiatives dedicated by Slow Food to local gastronomy.

It is a dish that well describes the character of the territory's daily cuisine: few ingredients, pasta, and mollusks, without the need to transform the raw material into something overly elaborate.

Rice, potatoes, and mussels

Rice, potatoes, and mussels, on the other hand, belongs to a broader Apulian tradition and is also particularly identified with Bari cuisine.

It is, therefore, correct to cite it among the dishes in which mussels can be the protagonists without defining it as an exclusively Taranto preparation.

The preparation is also present in the national list of traditional Apulian agri-food products under the name “Teglia al forno con patate riso e cozze” (Baked tray with potatoes, rice, and mussels).

Simple preparations with tomato and oil

In Puglian cuisine, mussels can also be used in simple preparations with tomato, pasta, and other Mediterranean ingredients. However, there is no single recipe that can be pointed to as mandatory for the Taranto tradition.

An ingredient transversal to regional cuisine is certainly extra virgin olive oil. To learn more about its characteristics and uses, you can also read the PUGGHIA article dedicated to extra virgin olive oil and Puglian tradition.

In the PUGGHIA selection, you can also find Puglian Extra Virgin Olive Oil 500 ml, an ingredient that belongs to the everyday life of regional cuisine and can simply accompany numerous Mediterranean dishes.

Black Mussels and sustainability

Speaking of sustainability in the case of the Taranto Black Mussel means above all considering the direct relationship between productive activity and the protection of the Mar Piccolo.

Mussel farming, in fact, depends on the conditions of the ecosystem in which it is practiced. Protecting the marine environment is therefore not an element separate from production, but an essential condition for the continuity of the economic activity itself.

The Presidium's disciplinary rules provide for attention to traceability, waste management, and the reduction of certain environmental pressures related to farming.

One of the most concrete aspects of the project concerns the testing of biodegradable and compostable nets and mesh as an alternative to some plastic materials traditionally used.

However, it is important to avoid absolute statements. Speaking of sustainability does not mean defining mussel farming as “zero impact.”

It is more accurate to speak of a path aimed at making the techniques and materials used progressively more compatible with environmental protection.

The rise in marine temperatures also represents a concrete issue for the future of the sector today: the difficulties documented in recent years show how closely production is dependent on the balance of the natural system.

The Black Mussel as Taranto's gastronomic heritage

Reducing the Taranto Black Mussel to a simple gastronomic specialty means losing an important part of its history.

Work, techniques, specific terminology, farming systems, and eating habits have developed around mussel farming.

Words like piscarie, lìbani, pergolari, and sciorinatura are not just linguistic curiosities: they describe operations and structures concretely linked to the trade of mussel farmers.

The value of the Taranto mussel is therefore simultaneously gastronomic, cultural, economic, and identity-based.

The Slow Food Presidium intervenes precisely at this delicate point: not to build an idealized image of the past, but to contribute to the protection of a production that is still alive, trying to make it compatible with contemporary needs for quality, traceability, and environmental awareness.

It is a perspective that is also close to the philosophy of PUGGHIA: telling the story of Puglia through real products, people, and territories, enhancing authenticity, artisanal quality, sustainability, and gastronomic culture without transforming traditions into mere folklore.

Taranto beyond the sea and beyond the Mediterranean Games

The XX edition of the Taranto 2026 Mediterranean Games opened on August 21, 2026, and continues until September 3, involving Taranto and numerous other Puglian competition venues.

An international event of this magnitude inevitably increases attention towards the city and the Ionian territory.

But Taranto's relationship with the Mediterranean does not begin in 2026.

It was already present in the trades linked to the sea, in the organization of the activities of the Mar Piccolo, and in the documents that, according to the Slow Food Foundation, already spoke of “cozze negre” in 1525.

Major events can offer new opportunities to get to know Taranto. Its gastronomic culture, however, possesses a history of its own and will continue to have value regardless of the spotlight of the moment.

Getting to know the Taranto Black Mussel therefore means knowing a concrete part of the city: its sea, its transformations, and the work of those who continue to practice mussel farming by adapting ancient skills to the needs of the present.

Frequently asked questions about the Taranto Black Mussel

What is the Taranto Black Mussel?

It is a mussel belonging to the Mytilus galloprovincialis species, linked to the tradition of Taranto mussel farming. The Slow Food Presidium concerns production linked to the Mar Piccolo and its related regulations.

Where is it farmed?

The production area indicated by the Slow Food Foundation for the Presidium is the Mar Piccolo of Taranto.

Why is it called the Black Mussel?

The name refers to the dark, black-violet coloration of the shells. The traditional name “Cozza tarantina, Cozza gnure” also appears in the national list of traditional Puglian agri-food products.

Is the Taranto Black Mussel DOP?

No. It is a Slow Food Presidium and the “Cozza tarantina, Cozza gnure” is among the traditional Puglian products (PAT), but neither recognition is equivalent to a DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). The Slow Food datasheet indicates DOP as a future goal.

What is the Black Mussel Slow Food Presidium?

It is a project presented in 2022 with the aim of protecting production, the work of mussel farmers, and the relationship with the Mar Piccolo through regulations oriented towards quality, traceability, and environmental awareness.

How many producers are part of the Presidium?

Sources use different units. The Slow Food Foundation datasheet lists 21 mussel farmers, while a Slow Fish update from May 2025 reports the presence of 24 cooperatives and hundreds of families. The two numbers are therefore not directly comparable.

When is the season for the Taranto Black Mussel?

The Slow Food Foundation indicates availability on the market especially in spring and summer. The actual production trend can vary depending on environmental conditions.

How to recognize the authentic one?

It is not enough to observe the color or size. It is important to verify the origin, producer, labeling, traceability, and, when declared, adherence to the Slow Food Presidium.

What are the typical dishes with mussels in Taranto?

Local cuisine preparations include tubetti with mussels and mussels au gratin. Rice, potatoes, and mussels, on the other hand, belong to the wider Puglian tradition and are also particularly associated with Bari cuisine.

Where is the Mar Piccolo of Taranto located?

It is an internal, semi-enclosed basin located north of the city of Taranto, divided into the First Inlet (Primo Seno) and Second Inlet (Secondo Seno), and historically linked to mussel farming.

How long have mussels been farmed in Taranto?

Taranto mollusk farming has very ancient origins. The Slow Food Foundation recalls activities dating back to Roman and medieval times, while pointing to 1525 as the first documentary evidence that specifically mentions the term “cozze negre.”

Consulted sources

• Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity – Taranto Black Mussel, official datasheet of the Slow Food Presidium .
• Slow Food Italy – A Slow Food Presidium that is more than a Slow Food Presidium: the Taranto black mussel , April 29, 2022.
• Slow Fish / Slow Food – update on the Taranto Black Mussel Presidium , May 2025.
• Slow Food Italy – Together for the black queen of Taranto , December 2024.
• Apulia Region – The Slow Food Presidium of the Taranto black mussel is presented , April 28, 2022.
• MASAF – Ministry of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry – national list of Traditional Agri-food Products, Apulia Region, entry “Cozza tarantina, Cozza gnure”.
• National Research Council – LTER Italy Network – scientific documentation on the Mar Piccolo of Taranto, on the submarine springs called “citri”, and on mussel farming.
• European Commission – geographical indications and quality schemes: DOP and IGP .
• Apulia Region – Mediterranean Games Taranto 2026, the XX edition kicks off , August 21, 2026.

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